Wiser’s Legacy Canadian Whisky
Review: Wiser’s Legacy Canadian Whisky 90/100
a review By Chip Dykstra (Aka Arctic Wolf)
Original Review December, 2009.
Revised, based upon a current sample, December, 2013 (scoring did not change)
Wiser’s Legacy Canadian Whisky (a Corby Brand) was released in early 2010 as a new entry into the fledgling “Super Premium” category of Canadian Whisky. At the time, a few other Super Premium Whiskies already existed in the market-place (Wiser’s own Red Letter, and Crown Royal’s, Cask No. 16 and Crown Royal XR); but the category hadn’t really caught the buying public’s imagination. In fact the Super Premium category had seen more failures than successes to that point (at least as far as Canadian Whisky was concerned). However the tipping point for the category seems to have been the year 2010, and the brand which (in my opinion) which helped the most to bring about a this change was Wiser’s Legacy.
It was just a few years earlier that retailers began to notice an increasing number of Whisky collectors and connoisseurs frequenting their shops (I know because I was one of them). Armed with our Whisky Bibles (Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible to be exact), we began to hunt through the aisles of the local liquor stores for that gem of a whisky to add to our burgeoning collection. We wanted to know what the experts (Jim Murray and Michael Jackson) thought of this particular whisky which we were about to purchase. So when Wiser’s Legacy was released in 2010, it was to a waiting public that was ready for new (and to us) exciting Whiskies. It probably didn’t hurt that two new Canadian Whisky writers, Davin de Kergommeaux (Canadian Whisky) and to a lessor degree, myself had just begun to shout from the rooftops that Canadian Whisky could be every bit as good as any whisky from anywhere else).
Of course, just because the timing is right, doesn’t mean that a brand will succeed. In this case the Super Premium category needed a Canadian Whisky that would be worth the hype. And in a nutshell, Wiser’s Legacy was. This whisky is produced from a rye forward mash bill (Canadian rye, rye malt and barley malt) using a slow copper pot distillation technique which was ‘fine-tuned’ to capture the very specific flavours and aromas during distillation. The new oak barrels used to age the resulting distillate were lightly toasted rather than heavily charred to help bring more of these specific flavours forward.
According to David Doyle, Master Blender for Wiser’s“:
“I have selected only the finest new, white oak casks, which are essential to the aging process and help mellow the perfect distillate under tightly controlled conditions. It is this careful and deliberate craftsmanship that makes Wiser’s Legacy the ultimate achievement in traditional Canadian whisky distilling.”
I reviewed the Wiser’s legacy four years ago (December, 2009) prior to the spirit’s release in 2010 based upon a pre-release sample given to me by Corby Distillers. I ventured back to the spirit as part of my Top 25 Canadian Whisky Countdown and decided that I should freshen up the review.
In the Bottle 5/5
Pictured to the left is the bottle shot I recently received for Wiser’s Legacy Whisky. I like the look of these masculine square whisky bottles which have been popping up lately. They look more like decanters than whisky bottles, and this serves to give the spirit inside a subconscious push into the consumer’s mind. This bottle says, “This ain’t your average whisky inside this container.” The solid cork topper serves to reinforce that notion.
In the Glass 9/10
When I poured the Legacy sample into my glencairn glass, I noticed that the whisky left a thick oily sheen on the glass, thicker than I have noticed with most other Canadian whiskies. This oily liquid slowly coalesced into big fat legs which very slowly crawled back down into the bottom of the glass. The fat legs are a reflection of the higher than normal alcohol content, and the rather large aging regimen used for this whisky brand.
The aroma from the glass is rich in rye spice and caramel toffee, with a subtle corn and bourbon influence. The oak is very apparent as well, bring sappy notes of oak and cedar forward as well as rich damp tobacco. There are some nice indications of baking spices (vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon) as well as vague impressions of baked muffins full of banana, walnuts and chocolate chips. The aroma certainly lives up to the impressive bottle.
In the Mouth 53.5/60
The legacy seems like an attempt to inject a fuller oak presence into the Canadian Whisky profile. Fresh oak tannin is at the forefront of the flavour which is thick with corn and bourbon tones swimming in a pool of rye. A kind of punky dankness lingers under these flavours, and I catch hints of maple, and perhaps a touch of anise buried in that dankness. Weaving through the profile of tastes are the definite fingerprints of typical Canadian rye spice and an appealing citrus undercurrent. Finally, underpinning the entire presentation is a mild smokey cigar like quality with dry wisps of woody tobacco. This is very complex; but the cost of the added complexity is a small loss of balance and smoothness which is typical of Canadian whisky. It is an interesting trade-off. In fact, I believe this may be an intended result. The whisky seems to burst with an appealing brashness which would be lost in the typically smooth and balanced Canadian whisky taste profile.
In the Throat 14/15
Thick oil coats the throat with an oak and spice explosion. The exit leaves the mouth puckered somewhat from the dry woodiness, and the throat is assaulted by spices which grow hotter in the throat than they were in the mouth. At the end of the finish, typical Canadian rye flavours finally appear en masse to battle the youthful oak down the throat.
The overall impression is that something awesome just might have happened in my throat, but it is hard to describe fully what it was.
The Legacy is extremely interesting because it is such a departure from a regular Canadian whisky. There is a great deal of complexity introduced by the young oak and this is definitely a giant step towards a more defined bourbon taste profile. What is missing, is the typical smoothness that Canadian Whisky is famous for. What is extra, is a rough and ready whisky which has one of the most complex flavour profiles I have experienced in Canadian Whisky.
You may read some of my other Whisky Reviews (click the link) if you wish to have some comparative reviews.
As always you may interpret the scores I provide as follows.
0-25 A spirit with a rating this low would actually kill you.
26-49 Depending upon your fortitude you might actually survive this.
50 -59 You are safe to drink this…but you shouldn’t.
60-69 Substandard swill which you may offer to people you do not want to see again.
70-74 Now we have a fair mixing rum or whisky. Accept this but make sure it is mixed into a cocktail.
75-79 You may begin to serve this to friends, again probably still cocktail territory.
80-84 We begin to enjoy this spirit neat or on the rocks. (I will still primarily mix cocktails)
85-89 Excellent for sipping or for mixing!
90-94 Definitely a primary sipping spirit, in fact you may want to hoard this for yourself.
95-97.5 The Cream of the Crop
98+ I haven’t met this bottle yet…but I want to.
Very loosely we may put my scores into terms that you may be more familiar with on a Gold, Silver, and Bronze medal scale as follows:
70 – 79.5 Bronze Medal (Recommended only as a mixer)
80 – 89.5 Silver Medal (Recommended for sipping and or a high quality mixer)
90 – 95 Gold Medal (Highly recommended for sipping and for sublime cocktails.)
95.5+ Platinum Award (Highest Recommendation)